Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
